The Complete Interior Decorator by Mike Lawrence
By Mike Lawrence
A frame-by-frame advisor to attaining ideal leads to adorning - easily, speedy and logically. Outlines easy recommendations, highlights the issues and gives functional recommendations. accommodates the newest advancements in adorning apparatus, fabrics and ideas with time-saving and cost-cutting assistance from the specialists.
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The excess can be removed when hard using medium and fine grade sandpaper to leave a smooth finish - an orbital sander is a boon here. Incidentally, don't bother with hairline cracks. These will not show through the decorative finish. Small holes can be treated in exactly the same way, but approach. Those in solid walls are best tackled in stages to stop the wet filler "slumping" under its own weight. With large holes (more than 2in larger ones need a different across), use ordinary plaster for the initial filling - it's cheaper than filler when bought in "handy packs" - but finoff ish oftWith proprietary filler for a smooth finish.
Painting over old wallpaper is another matter, especially if you intend using a water-based paint such as latex. Unless it has already been successfully painted (thus scaling the surface), there is a risk that the water in the paint will soften the wallpaper paste and cause the old paper to peel off The older the paste, the greater the chances of this happening, which is why you can hang textured wallpaper, or something similar, and safely paint over it straight aw ay There is also a risk of the inks in the old paper bleeding through the new paint — you can end up with the ghostly images of the 1 to CRACKS Use a narrow-bladed scraper rake out any unsound materialfrom the crack, and undercut the edges slightly at each side so the filler can make a more positive bond 2 U the et the filler, crack before applying to help cut down on the suction, if this isn 'I done, may dry out loo quickly and could crack the filler You can use a small hand spray original design dotted unevenly across the wall.
But don't regard painting as a permanent solution: it tends to flake easily; particularly in the humid environment of a kitchen or bathroom. Smartening up old, dirty grouting provides a more permanent facelift, and can be surprisingly effective. Either rake out and replace the old grout, or carefully paint it with latex paint. Better still, use a modern, purpose-made grout paint; any that strays onto the glazed surface can be polished off when dry. To complete the renovation, chip out any badly damaged tiles using a small sledge hammer and cold chisel, and replace with a continuous lengths Start at a bottom comer seam, peel the away at baseboard and then pull the length steadily away from the wall full width level tiles.