Trim Carpentry Techniques Installing Doors, Windows, Base, by Craig Savage
By Craig Savage
Bargains sensible recommendation on making a choice on instruments, fitting molding, and extra.
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Additional resources for Trim Carpentry Techniques Installing Doors, Windows, Base, and Crown
My toolbox contains two plumb bobs, a heavy one that's less affected by the wind for outdoor work and a lighter one for stair and door work. You can improvise a plumb bob by tying a piece of cotton twine to a heavy eyebolt or to any other heavy, pointed object. Hung from a nail, the bob's string describes plumb from the nail to the point of the bob. The bob should be suspended so its point is just above the floor. Shopmade tools Earlier, I explained that much of the measuring a trim carpenter does has more to do with conforming to existing conditions than with some fixed ideal size.
I start my take-offs with the interior doors. This guarantees that I'll look at every room in the house. Since doors are standing trim, I try to keep my calculations as accurate as possible so I can use standard molding lengths. A typical 6-ft. 8-in. high interior door needs four 7-ft. pieces of side casing (two for each side of the door). This length allows for the 4 in. of waste consumed by the miters. Because molding is sold in multiples of 2 ft. , I have two choices: I can buy five 8-ft. lengths for the side and head casings or two 14-ft.
Three or four knives spinning at 2, 700 rpm make a terrible din, and they can do horrible damage to a misplaced hand. The knives have been known to fly out of the head. Without fail, use guards and hold-downs and wear eye and ear protection when you use molding heads. When the furnished guard won't fit-as is sometimes the case on the radial-arm saw-try to fashion one out of wood or, as shown in the photos on p. 40, operate the cutterhead through a wooden fence. Molding-head knives come in a wide selection, especially from Delta, which has been selling a moldinghead system for many years.